Your dog has the opportunity to develop only to the level of your ability to teach and to shape his/her behavior and temperament. The greater your education and understanding, the greater your ability will be to teach your dog the behaviors that you desire, with a confident and attentive attitude.

With this in mind, below you will find our  Puppy Care Handouts, links for books and sites that we believe will assist you in gaining a better understanding of your dog's behavior and temperament. You will also find links for the food and treats we feed our rascals, as well as pretty much anything that catches our fancy.

What is the process for adopting your puppies?

If you would like to be considered for a puppy, we would like to know a little more about you so if you haven’t done so already, please give us a call or send off an email!. This isn’t us being nosey..ok, maybe a little J, but adopting a pup as well as placing pups is an awesome responsibility and it is important that we are both comfortable and this information will help us better place the appropriate pup with you. Tell us about your experience with dogs, your family situation: if you have children, work outside the home. We will then put you on our list and contact you as litters are born. If you would like to go forward with a pup, we will then ask that you fill out our Agreement of Sale which will be sent to you and send it in with a $250 deposit.

Can I come and visit your puppies?

We are currently NOT accepting visits to our home until the puppies are 7 weeks or older. Puppies that have already been allocated to families will not be available for viewing by the general public. In caring for our dogs, our puppies and our home, I can only agree to appointments with people committed to buying a puppy at this time. This is our new protocol, which we will not deviate from. We had lost a whole litter of 8 week old puppies to Parvo due to a contaminated visitor interacting with our pups. The traditional search for the right puppy has people visiting a number of Breeders, holding pups and making a decision in person. However, that tradition is helping to spread Parvovirus, the number one threat to the life of young puppies. Parvo can be carried on clothes, shoes and spread from pup to pup by touching and petting. Please read this informative link: http://www.geocities.com/englishbulldogpup/parvo.html. It is also important to tell us if you have had a dog or puppy infected or die from Parvo within the last six months because it is possible to bring it here. Before you visit us, we ask that you do not go to Pet Stores, Vets, other breeders or any other place dogs conjugate.

Can we pick out our own puppy?

First thing to know is that we do not accept deposit until we have puppies born and we are comfortable with the viability. We no longer have a formal application to fill out because we found that we were receiving canned and terse responses, but we do want to know a little more about you so if you haven’t done so already, please send off an email explaining your experience, what you are looking for and anything else that will help us get to know you. This isn’t us being nosey, ok, maybe a little J,  but adopting a pup as well as placing pups is an awesome responsibility and it is important that we are both comfortable and this information will help us better place the appropriate pup with you. Tell us about your experience with dogs, your family situation: if you have children, work outside the home, expectations...At this point there aren't any right or wrong answers (well, if you've had alot of dogs and took them to a shelter...that would be a wrong answer) We really do need to know your experiences and expectations so we can better guide you in rewardingly raising a pup. Please send off your Vet information as well. We will then send you a Deposit Agreement and ask that you send it in with a $250 deposit  Balance is required at time of pickup. Please, no personal checks for the balance.

With the information you supply us about your family and preferences, Jersey Doodles will guide you to an appropriate litter and puppy. After looking at puppy pics for a few weeks we do ask for a list of the pups you are favoring. We do reserve the right to yah or nay your decision based on temperament… and we do reserve the right to keep a pup for our program or for another breeder. In the past we have had our dogs temperament tested and had trainers come in and basically it all came down to giving us an idea of that pup on that day, at that hour. Yes, yes, I know that all the books direct you on how to pick your perfect puppy. Flipping a pup on its back doesn’t tell you (it may with someone who tested thousands of dogs) anything except that a pup doesn’t want you to flip it. We know our parents and we know what the pups are like better than you can after sitting here an hour. Really. Although pups can seem alittle nutty at times ( and you will too for a few months) we promise we won’t hand you over Cujo.

Below are the reasons we have this policy:

1. Families want to know what puppy they are getting as soon as possible so they can show their families and friends, workmates and hang their picture on the fridge. Go ahead and laugh, I know you all will do it!  Since now you know our visiting policy, do you really want to wait until 7 weeks to know what puppy you will get?

2. Many families have specific needs and preferences for temperament, coat types and sex and it is our goal that each family is content with their new family member.

3. Because not every family, because of distance, can visit us prior to their release, we would hate to have any family feel as if they had the last pup in the litter, because inevitably someone will say “What’s wrong with it that no one picked it?” (The reality is that there isn’t anything wrong with the last puppy, as every family values different attributes)

In all honesty, we are pretty easy going and want to make sure that everyone is happy with their puppy. Please understand that we are not a Pet Store where you can casually come by to see and play with puppies and then decide to buy one.

Because we are uncomfortable taking deposits before the pups are born and instead like to wait a few weeks before we start posting about  them, we may have pups over the age of 8 weeks who have not been allocated to families. Puppies are normally released between 8-10 weeks. At this time you are more than welcomed to make an appointment and if we are all comfortable with each other, and you find a pup you like, we will then release a pup to you. We do have a limit of three pups in which you can interact with. We do this because each pup that has been handled will need to be quarantined from its littermates.

Do you require contracts to be signed?

Yes. All puppies are placed on a Spay/Neuter Contract which requires all owners to have their puppies desexed by the age of six months, with Vet Certification sent to us by seven months. We feel very strongly about this; responsible breedership goes hand in hand with responsible ownership. Included with the contract is our Agreement of Sale, which states what we diseases we warranty our puppies for.

Are Doodles healthy?

We take great care in making sure our breeding dogs are healthy in order to produce the best puppies possible. All our parents have had their hips checked via Pennhip and have had their eyes CERFed . We also test run tests for ,Heart, SA , vWD, thyroid as well as running yearly CBC’s, depending on the breed of dog. Test scores will be available for viewing and can be emailed.

Can I have my puppy shipped?

We have successfully shipped many puppies and adult dogs throughout the United States and Canada. Shipping from Philadelphia is usually $250 for up to 50lbs (pup and crate weight) This price includes the ticket, crate and required preflight Vet check. Shipping for over 50lbs varies depending on the carrier. Temperatures dictate shipping, which most times need to be between 45 and 85 degrees.

Instead of shipping, many new owners decide to come and pick their pup up themselves. They fly into Philadelphia International, and then rent a car, or Atlantic City International, where we can easily pick them up. New owners then fly back home with the pup in the cabin, nestled in an airline approved soft crate.

Do Doodles shed? Are they good for people with allergies?

Please know that there are no guarantees concerning the shedding and hypoallergenic properties of Doodles, especially within the initial generations. It is imperative that all pups are place in homes where there is no possibility of needing to be rehomed because of allergy issues. F1B’s or higher generational Doodles are recommended. If you or a family member has serious allergy issues then you may want to consider a Poodle or another non-shedding breed. You will not be able to "test" out or get a true reading on any of our breeding dogs or puppies for allergies because we have dander producing dogs in our home and even our Poodles may make you sneeze. Because allergy issues are individual to that person, and dander is individual to that dog, your reaction will differ from animal to animal.

How big do your Doodles get? What colors do they come in?

Because we only breed with Standard size Poodles, our puppies will mature between 40-765 lbs, depending on the parents.  Some smaller, some bigger. :)

Our puppies are variations of Red, Apricot, and Cream, but we also do an occasional Black litter.

What is a Microchip?

A microchip is an inert pod the size of a grain of rice which is implanted between a dogs shoulder blade and is a permanent ID. We implant all puppies with a microchip , and you will receive the necessary paperwork to register them in your name. If your dog is lost and ends up in a shelter or at a Vet, it will be scanned and then the number unique to that dog appears on their scanner. They will call Home Again and they in turn will contact you.

Are there differences between male and female puppies?

Males may mature slightly larger than females and it’s necessary to take a slight detour when rubbing their bellies, but temperament wise, a neutered male is similar to a spayed female.

Many folks will gravitate towards females because they believe males are capable of nasty, nasty things. Well, let me put the rumor to rest. If a dog mounts, apart from a reaction to a gal in heat, they are engaging in a social act not a sexual one, and the gals can be an equal opportunity humper and mounter just as a male can. Marking, also known as “peeing just about everywhere and on everything” can be a trait of an intact male, tiny dogs and dogs whose owners allow such behavior to continue.  The act of neutering will neutralize and limit inappropriate behavior that gives males a bad name. Males are incredibly affectionate and loving and the general consensus is that a neutered male will get along splendidly with another male or female, and a female and female can be iffy, but the reality is based in each individual dog’s temperament and your training ability.

Grooming Needs for Doodles

Depending on the coat type, some dogs may need more grooming than others. The flatter coat pups will most likely have some continuous hair growth like a Poodle, but may be manageable with a quick trim at home. The fuller coated, thicker pups will need to be groomed every few months and possibly brushed out daily or every other day, so please figure this into your daily and financial schedule.

Structure

Dogs are highly social communal animals. They live by a highly structured set of communal rules. These rules allow for each member of the society to know and be comfortable with their placement within the hierarchy. When each member is secure in their placement, displays of aggression are needless. Aggression is not meant to kill or even injure the opponent. It is displayed in an attempt to change or redirect the opponent’s behavior. Once the opponent submits to the desire of the greater or more dominant animal, the aggressive display generally ends. It is important that we recognize the need for and the value of establishing structure, leadership and positive communication with our home companion dogs. In a human society, it is not necessary to display aggression toward our dogs to establish leadership. In fact, aggression or aversive treatment often leads to greater (defensive) aggression by the inflicted animal. Fear and distrust are also undesirable but often seen side effects of aversive training methods.

In obtaining a leadership position with our dogs it is important that our communication relays a sense of trust that will support an eager and willing interaction from our dogs. Communication should be clear, concise and, most importantly, consistent. It should be educational; focusing upon reinforcement and building upon the behaviors you want as opposed to chastising the behaviors you do not want. Remember that as long as your dog lives he must be doing something at each moment. We will reach our goals much faster if we focus upon teaching our dogs the proper behavior to be displayed in specific situations.

Dogs learn by the immediate consequences of their actions. Behaviors that gain a pleasurable response continue. Behaviors that are displayed continuously absolutely gain the dog in some way. If they did not, your dog would not waste his energy in a meaningless attempt. Behaviors that are met with an aversive response or no response fade away. A dog’s behavior can be greatly variable. If one behavior does not gain a sought after response, the dog will try something else and something else again until he is able to obtain the wanted gain. You can easily obtain a positive and trusting leadership position with your dog by acknowledging and controlling his access to gainful situations. By allowing gains for graduating displays of wanted behavior, you can teach your dog that all good things come through you for attentive, trusting and obedient behavior. Unwanted behaviors cause for a loss of treasured events.

Attention

Ignore any and all solicitous behavior, such as barking, whining, pawing, nudging, mouthing or bringing toys. Do not look at, talk to or touch your dog when he/she is displaying solicitous behaviors.
You may initiate attention or any other gainful activity only when your dog is completely calm, relaxed and neutral for at least 5 seconds. Once your dog becomes aware of what he/she must do in order to gain, you must vary the time he/she must wait. Example: 5 seconds, 30 seconds, 7 seconds etc….Once your dog understands that calm, relaxed behavior gains attention/play, your dog must start earning it. Example: call dog to come to you for gain, sit for gain, stay for gain etc….

For a family pet, there are seemingly cute puppy acts that are not acceptable, for example: using its shoulder to bump you, body blocking, putting a paw on your lap, leaning on you, pushing you over on the couch, placing paws on the your shoulders (or your child's shoulders) in a standing position, and any of these with a full frontal stare. These acts all indicate a desire to express dominance. When the puppy does them, you should quietly push down his rear into a sitting position and give it a good petting...from your dominant standing position. You can also turn the dog to stand sideways to you and pet it, as a dog that has turned its side is making a pacifying gesture. These small issues are particularly important in the families with children.

When your dog sits, yawns, sniffs the ground, scratches itself, stands sideways to you, stares off at the horizon....these are all acts of signifying submission, and indifference to any challenge of a fight. Generally, a submissive pup will also lick the face of the dominant dog, so this act is not dominant....unless you are lying down and the pup is standing over you.

Mounting by your puppy is not a sexual act. The females and males both mount. It is a statement of dominance, not of affection. It needs to be stopped right away by some basic obedience training. Pull the dog off of the mounting position and put it into the sitting position. Or do a little leash work, with appropriate rewards, to reaffirm you dominance. If the dog will not stop, turn you back toward them, or walk out of the room. If the puppy tries to mount toys or other items, do the same thing, until all mounting behavior has stopped. Try to remember that mounting behavior is nothing more than communication of social dominance.

Mouthing, biting or barking are also not tolerable. Their mother's response to such behavior would be to put her mouth around their snout and growl. You need to put you hand around their snout, hold it closed, and say "No" or "Quiet" in a low growly voice. Do not say "No" in a high pitched voice. Be firm and deep.

Nipping, Chewing and Mouthing

Unfortunately, puppies chew and nip. They also dig…even at plaster walls. They are unlikely to do this when you are watching, so you won't be able to effectively discipline them about it. Whatever room the puppy stays in will need to be puppy-proofed as much as possible.

As discussed above, when they play with you with their mouth open, grab your hand around their entire snout, closing their mouth firmly, and say, in your low growly voice, No! This will have to be done at least a hundred times over the first few months you have your puppy. Never reward the mouthing puppy with the attention it is trying to get...this is not the time to pet it.

If you puppy is very excited and does not pay attention to your disciplining, again, turn your back and slowly walk away until they settle down, then praise your puppy for being good.

To minimize its interest in nipping you, give them lots of things to chew…including raw carrots, ice cubes, cardboard boxes, nylabones, potato bones, hard rubber toys, cloth toys. Also, diversion with a training lesson is very helpful way to get your puppy’s attention.

Most training is done on a lead/leash. It is not a Tug-of-War, which your pup will see as a game. You may begin to train your puppy to sit and lie down from the first week that you own it. You will be surprised how quickly it will learn to become immediately calm and sit when you give it a treat each time.

Teaching the Word "Enough"

It is important that you always initiate at this stage all attention and gainful activities. When you are finished giving attention/play, stop, take your hands off your dog, disengage play, become neutral, say the word “Enough” (only once) and then revoke any and all attention to your dog. Never give in and never repeat yourself.

Exercise and Play

This helps to relieve stress, anxiety and physical energies that may manifest themselves in other directions. Appropriate exercise may include:

Walking – going in different directions and different environments for increased stimulation.

Fetch – dog must bring the item back and drop. Do not take item.

Tug – dog must readily drop when you say “enough”. Mouth/teeth must never touch skin.

Go Find – throw cookies/treats in the yard.

Hide and Seek – with toys and/or kids.

Wrestling – dog must understand the meaning of “enough”. Mouth must never touch skin. Jumping is not allowed.

*Remember that all games must have absolute rules. You must initiate and end all play activity. Your dog should get approximately two to three hours of mental and physical activity per day.

Chew Toys and Treats

These toys can help to increase stimulation in the home when owner is not able to be involved: Kong, Planet Dog, Sterilized Bones, Cow Hooves, Nylabone or Galileo and Booda Bones. JB Pet has get items at a great price and they base their shipping coast on cost not weight. J-B Wholesale

**Make these toys fun by adding food treats or peanut butter, rotate them and reinforce your dog when they are being used.

Please keep rawhide in any form away from your dog. We recommend Bully Sticks, Tendons, Pumpers, Pig Ears, knuckles, hooves. Any natural animal part makes a wonderful treat. We order our treat from Discount-Pet-Direct You can also pick up soup bones that contain marrow. Rinse, do not boil these bones as they will make them brittle.

We suggest getting the least expensive dog bed you can get. Make sure it has a zipper for easier washing.

Leaving and Coming Home

When leaving, if possible, exercise your dog for approximately 30 minutes, allowing your dog at least 15 minutes to relax and become neutral in the home. Calmly put your dog in the confined area. Then give your dog one or more of the occupational/pacifier toys mentioned above. Give your dog the toy after he/she goes into the confined area. Then, calmly and neutrally leave. Do not go back and give attention to (reinforce) solicitous behavior. When coming home, be neutral and calm. Do not go directly to your dog, varying the time he/she must wait before you acknowledge him/her. Only approach the confined area when your dog is calm and relaxed (you may have to reinforce successive approximations to calm behavior, the end goal). Do this in a calm and neutral fashion, let the dog outside, let the dog back in and then again wait until the dog is calm and relaxed. This may take 20 minutes or more. At the point when your dog is calm and relaxed, you may initiate attention. All guests entering the home must play by the same rules, not engaging the dog upon entering. It is important to be absolutely 100 percent consistent. Lack of complete and absolute commitment can and most probably will worsen the problem. Any and all problematic behaviors should, at this point, be prevented until a complete program is in place to teach an acceptable, appropriate, alternate behavior. Example: if my dog does not like other dogs, he/she should not be around other dogs at this time.

Children and Puppies

You, more than most, need a dog to be well trained and have a good temperament. Please make sure that your children understand that puppies need affection and gentle handling in the first few months in their new home. Very little running and no rough housing!!

Children will need to be taught how to pick up the puppy, always with two hands, and always to walk very carefully, never making the puppy frightened about being dropped. Children need training on how to react to a puppies misbehavior- with no hitting, no shouting. Only a firm “No” or, “No Bite” and then the removal of the puppy from the misbehavior.

It is much easier for a puppy to dominate a child than an adult. Take all measures to make sure the puppy does not think it is the “alpha” in it’s relation to your child. No mouthing, mounting, leaning on, body blocking…are acceptable. Your child should not lie down in a submissive position under the pup.

While children should learn to participate in all aspects of puppy care, the puppy should not be considered their full responsibility. It would be best if only adults are in charge of puppy training and discipline during the first year. After the pup is six months, basic obedience raining with the children handling the dog in class would be recommended.

Housebreaking

Most important thing to remember: What goes in must come out!! With puppies, what goes in will magically multiply ten times when it comes out.

There are basically two methods of house breaking a puppy 1) crate training and 2) paper training. Crate training is the most effective method for housebreaking to ensure that a puppy is fully trained. Paper training risks only partial housebreaking as a puppy learns that it is acceptable to relieve itself indoors. The foundation for crate training is based on the principle that puppies will avoid soiling in their immediate sleeping/living area. Consistently follow the steps below to teach your pet to eliminate outside:

1. Choose one or two areas where you want your pet to eliminate. The odor left at this place will remind your pet to eliminate when you take him there.
    
2. Take your pet to the area on a leash. While he eliminates, praise him profusely. DO NOT put your pet out in the yard by himself! You must be there to help focus his attention and to praise within seconds of elimination.
    
3. Stick to a schedule for feeding and walking so your pet can anticipate being taken out.
    
4. Confine your pet to a small area, such as a dog crate or part of a tiled room when you can not watch it. Dogs naturally avoid soiling their den or bed area. Close confinement helps to motivate your pet to wait to be taken outside and prevents damage to your home. If you must confine your pet longer than it can wait to eliminate, give it extra space to eliminate away from its bed.
    
5. When your pet soils inside, clean the area with vinegar or an odor eliminator such as Natures Miracle. Do not use ammonia. On carpets, soak up as much urine as possible with towels, then soak the carpet and padding with odor eliminator. Unless all odors are destroyed, the pet will be attracted to eliminate there again. Punishing your pet in any way will do more harm than good, especially if correction occurs more than a few seconds after elimination. Do NOT push your dogs face into their mess; it teaching them nothing!

You must anticipate your pet's need to eliminate and provide it the opportunity to eliminate in the appropriate place. Adjust the schedule or watch your pet more closely.

Tips for setting the housebreaking schedule:

1. Plan to take the pet outside 10-30 minutes after feeding, first thing in the morning and last thing at night, and whenever the pet gets excited.
    
2. In general, you should plan to take your pet out in hourly intervals equal to your pet’s age in months. e.g. a 2 month old pup should go out at least every 2 hours, a 4 month old every 4 hours, etc. Regardless of age or previous training, start with a maximum interval of 4 hours.
    
3. Although pups younger than 6 months may understand that you want them to go only outside, their performance is still limited physically by the size of their bladder.

Some dogs, once housebroken, can wait over 8 hours at a time, but others, like most people, can't. It may be necessary to hire a dog walker if your schedule can't accommodate your pet's physical needs. At first, puppies will go everywhere and anywhere. Don't get upset and don't punish the puppy, it can set back the housebreaking process drastically, especially if your puppy is shy or nervous.

Feeding and Our Puppy Food

We have been successfully using Canidae (www.canidae.com), which is an all stage food so you can feed this through adulthood. On their site is a store locator so you can find one close to home. If you do not find a store close to you, or like the convenience of internet shopping, it can be ordered here: J-B Wholesale.

There are tons of greats foods out there, some that will work with your dog, others that won't, but read the bag and try to avoid corn and wheat .

Feeding should be on a schedule.; 2 or 3 times a day for 20 minutes per feeding. Food is taken away either after the dog finishes or after 20 minutes. If the dog is still eating after 20 minutes, the bowl may be left.

If the dog walks away, the bowl gets put away after 20 minutes. Hand-feed your dog when calm and relaxed. If your dog gets excited, put the food dish away where he/she can not reach it and start again when they are calm.

Feeding should be generalized throughout the house as opposed to one specific area. Remember to use the crate to feed your puppy, but don’t close them in.

You may want to consider stainless steel bowls that have slopping sides (this helps to keep ears from going into the bowls) Ceramic bowls work nicely as well but they tend to be straight sided and dogs will usually put their paw in and tip it over. Stay away from plastic because it can hold germs and because the pigment in the plastic can sometimes lighten the dog’s nose.

Supplements

Because the baking process of kibble can destroy nutrients, we suggest supplementing with a natural, human grade vitamin. We do all we can to ensure long and healthy lives for all our pets and for the pups we place in new homes and we have found that NuVet Plus has all the attributes we desire in a high quality supplement. These vitamins cannot be purchased in a store and can only be found at NuVet Labs.

Adding Fresh Foods to a Commercial Diet

All of our pups enjoy one meal a day of raw meat or fish ,with bones included. Chicken wings, chicken backs, pork necks, tilapia, butter fish...If you are interested in continuing this mode of feeding or wish to feed a full raw diet, you will find tons of information on the internet on the how to's . NEVER FEED YOUR DOG COOKED BONES, which can easily splinter.  Raw bones are fabulous for them.  It is generally better to add protein sources rather than carbohydrates (grains and vegetables), since commercial diets are already usually high in carbs and dogs have no nutritional need for them. Animal source proteins, including eggs, meat, organs and dairy are the best foods to add. Here is some more information on foods you can add to a commercial diet:

• Eggs: preferably raw, can also be lightly scrambled or hard boiled. Whole eggs are fine, as the yolks contain plenty of biotin to make up for what the whites destroy. One of the healthiest and easiest to add foods.
   
• Muscle Meat (including Heart): any kind of meat, either ground or chunks (small enough to avoid choking), is fine. Raw is best, but can be lightly cooked (if boneless). If you are not including bones, add 1/2 tsp. ground eggshell (you can grind it in a coffee grinder) to a pound of meat to give the proper calcium/phosphorus ratio. Adding calcium is not necessary if the added meat is only a small portion of the diet.
   
• Liver or other Organ Meat: feed small amounts of liver at a time, as it is rich and can lead to diarrhea, but it is very dense nutritionally and good to feed. Kidney is similar, but not quite as rich. Most other organ meats, like hearts and gizzards, are nutritionally more like muscle meats.
   
• Fish: Sardines (packed in water, not oil), Jack Mackerel or Canned Salmon: Perfect ratio of meat to bones, plus full of omega-3 essential fatty acids. Never feed raw salmon or trout from the Pacific Northwest (California to Alaska), as it may contain a parasite that can be fatal to dogs. I don't recommend feeding tuna, as it is more likely to be contaminated with mercury, and does not include bones.
   
• Yogurt: plain, preferably organic, whole milk (rather than low- or non-fat) is fine unless your dog needs to lose weight.
   
• Cottage Cheese or Ricotta Cheese: low-fat is best.
   
• Garlic: may help repel fleas (although this is anecdotal) and has other health benefits as well. Garlic can be toxic in very large quantities. Give no more than 1/2 to 1 raw, crushed clove per 20 pounds of body weight.
   
• Recreational bones can help keep the teeth clean, and avoid gum diseases. I like to give large marrow bones Knuckle bones are also good. The marrow is very rich and may cause diarrhea (you can scoop some of it out with a spoon before feeding to help). Bones get harder as they dry out, so to avoid problems with broken teeth, it's better to take the bones away after a reasonable amount of time (anything from a few hours to a day or two).
   
• Canned Pumpkin (not pumpkin pie mix) -- great for digestion, helps both diarrhea and constipation. Use in small amounts, as too much can also cause diarrhea.
   
• Veggies: preferably pureed raw or can be steamed (whole raw veggies, such as broccoli or carrot sticks, are not harmful but can't be digested by dogs). Good veggies include carrots, celery, all kinds of greens (kale, collard greens, mustard greens, bok choy, cabbage, spinach, chard, parsley, cilantro, etc.), lettuce (anything but iceberg, which is not very nutritious), broccoli, brussel sprouts, zucchini, asparagus, turnips, parsnips, etc. Do NOT feed onions. Warning: If your animal is having any symptoms of arthritis, inflammation, respiratory problems or any other conditions that involve swelling or mucous, stay away from the nightshade family (potatoes, tomatoes, peppers and eggplant).
   
• Fruit: banana, papaya, apple, pear, avocado, etc.

Crates and Other Methods of Confinement

Providing your puppy with an indoor crate can satisfy a dog's need for a den-like enclosure. A crate is also a very effective housebreaking tool because dog's have a natural aversion to soiling their living quarters. Although their resemblance to cages puts many people off using crates, if properly introduced your dog will think of his crate as a safe, secure den. Once your dog is happy in the crate he can be left there to prevent soiling and chewing when you are out for a short time, he can be restrained when the kids play noisy, energetic games which are not improved by his joining in, and he has a secure familiar bed which can be taken in the car and on vacation if needed.

You should confine your puppy for NO MORE THAN 3-4 HOURS at a time during the day. Don’t force your new pup into the crate for the first time. Plan on taking plenty of quality time the first few days to get the pup accustomed to the new surroundings. Using the food treat, coax it into the home slowly but surely. At the beginning you may need to gently place the pup into the crate. Don’t punish your pup by putting (or forcing) it into its home. Again, your pup’s home should be his secure place.

The crate should be big enough for your dog to stand up, turn round and stretch out when lying down. You will need to purchase a crate that will fit your puppy when it is fully grown so be sure to purchase a crate that has a divider with it so you can move the divider back as your puppy grows. If you give them too large of a space, they will use part of the crate for sleeping and the other part for their business. We recommend the Midwest Model 1642 - 42” x 28” x 31” high or you can easily go with the 36" model.

Putting a blanket over the metal crate will help keep the crate denlike for them. We use plastic crates because we are constantly bringing pups and adults to the Vet and the crate goes from the house to the car. For those who prefer plastic, you can create a divider by using a box as a divider.

To begin with you will need to leave the crate set up all the time. When left in the crate your dog should have a toy or chew bone to keep him occupied when awake, soft bedding to sleep on. Feed the dog in the crate every day, with the door open. This is an easy way to get him to like it. Make it the place where you give him his special treats. At this stage, leave the door pinned open so that the dog is never fastened in by mistake and gets stressed. Soon the dog should happily use the crate voluntarily. When you reach this stage, (NOT BEFORE) wait until he goes in for a sleep, then close the door. Stay in the room, and let him out as he starts to wake up. When your dog is used to this routine, leave him for a minute after he wakes up, with you still in the room. Gradually (over about a week) increase the time you can do this. If your dog gets distressed, reassure him briefly but firmly and shorten the time on the next attempt. Don't make a big fuss as lots of attention can make him think you're praising him for being distressed, and he'll do it all the more. When you can leave the dog like this, leave the room for a few minutes but stay in the house. Again, gradually increase the time you are out of sight . A dog should never be left in a crate for more than a couple of hours at a time. At night, when you are gone, and when you are busy and cannot watch your puppy, you should keep him confined to his crate. Be sure your puppy has eliminated before placing him in his crate, and take him to his designated area as soon as you take him out of his crate. Rarely does a dog or puppy want to eliminate in his bed, if he does, the following may be the cause:

1. You may be using a larger crate than necessary.
2. The puppy is too young to have much control.
3. The puppy did not fully eliminate before being confined.
4. The puppy has worms.
5. The puppy has a poor or rich diet.
6. The puppy has loose stools.
7. The puppy drank a large amount of water before going in the crate.
8. The puppy is suffering from a health condition or illness.
9. The puppy is suffering from separation anxiety.

A "crate routine" should be established immediately, closing the puppy in the crate at regular intervals for 1 to 2 hours during the day. The puppy's nap times will help guide you in establishing these times. Additionally, whenever the puppy must be left alone for a period of time, or is going to be unsupervised the pup should be crated. Prior to crating, be sure to remove the pup's collar which could become caught in an opening.

At night, in the beginning, you may want to place the crate in a small enclosed area such as a bathroom or laundry room. Placing the crate in this area with the door left open and newspapers nearby, enables the pup to relieve itself without soiling its crate. Once the pup matures he will develop greater bladder and bowel control. When the pup has sufficient control, and if there is no intestinal upset, he can be crated all night in his usual place. There may be setbacks - but don't give up - the keys are consistency and perseverance. The pup will adjust to the routine - you will have a secure well adjusted companion.

If you do not choose, or not able, to use the crate permanently, you should plan on using the crate for at least 5 to 6 months. At this age your pup will be past the teething phase - at which time you can start leaving the crate door open at night, or when someone is at home during the day, or when he is going to be left alone for a brief period of time. If there are no incidences for a week or two, and the dog is behaving well when left alone, you may be ready to remove the crate itself and place the dog's bedding in the same spot. Initially the dog may miss the crate enclosure, but the dog still has his "place", and the habit of good behavior should continue. If any problems arise the crate routine can be re-established.

Always remove your puppy or dog's collar before confining in the crate. Even flat buckle collars can occasionally get struck on the bars or wire mesh of a crate. If you must leave a collar on the pup when you crate him (e.g.: for his identification tag), use a safety "break away" collar.

There are alternative methods to crating very young puppies and puppies that must be left alone in the house for lengths of time. Use a small to medium-sized room space such as a kitchen, large bathroom or hallway with non- porous floor. Set up the crate on one end, the food and water a few feet away, and some newspaper (approx. 2'x3' to 3'x3') using a 3 to 4 layer thickness, several feet away. Confine your puppy to this room or area using a 3 ft. high, safety-approved child's gate rather than shutting off the opening by a solid door. You can also set up the crate by attaching an Exercise Pen. Your pup will feel less isolated if it can see out beyond its immediate place of confinement. Puppy proof the area by removing any dangerous objects or substances.

Cleaning Ears

Healthy ears are clean, free of debris, and without odor. Hair growing in the dog’s ear canal needs to be removed to help prevent infection and make it easier to clean. Ear powder makes the ear hair easier to grab and remove. To remove the hair, apply a small amount of ear powder into the ear canal, making sure the hair is covered with powder. Hold the earflap back with one hand while you gently pluck the hair with your thumb and forefinger of your other hand. After you have pulled the ear hair, wipe the ear out with a dry cotton ball, or one slightly moistened with mineral oil. Healthy ears will not need a lot of cleaning.

Cleaning a dirty ear, one that is filled with wax or debris, is another story. Fill the ear canal with ear cleaner. We find Derma Pet to work great (Your Vet will have this) or you can make this ear clearer yourself. Iformation about this can be found here http://www.itsfortheanimals.com/Adobe/Blue%20Power%20Ear%20Treatment.pdf

16 oz. isopropyl
4 tablespoons Boric Acid Powder
16 drops gentian violet solution 1%

Mix well (very important) in bottle and shake before each use. Flood ear with solution, gently count to 60, wipe with a tissue or cotton ball.

For an infection treat 2x day for the 1st week to two weeks. Treat 1x day for next week-2 week. Treat 1x moth or less frequently.

Fill the ear canal completely with fluid. Massage for 30 seconds, and then let the dog shake their head. This helps flush any dirt out. This can get a little messy so maybe do it outside. Whip out the ear with cotton balls. Don’t be fearful of getting your finger deep into the canal, you won’t puncture anything. Repeat if necessary. If there is very little dirt, just dampen cotton ball with cleaner and whip. This should be done every week or so to prevent ear infections.

Natural Flea Repellants

CITRUS REPELLANT: Cut a lemon into quarters and place in a pint jug. Cover the lemon with boiling water and let it steep overnight. Next day you have a flea repellant that you can use in a spray bottle. Spray all over your dog remembering especially behind the ears and around the head generally (careful of eyes), around the base of the tail (once again keep away from delicate bits) and under your dog armpits.

AROMATHERAPY REPELLANT. Using 10 ml. of sweet almond oil as your base, add 10 drops of lavender and 5 drops of cedarwood. Shake well and use 1 or 2 drops spread over the skin at least twice a week to keep the fleas away. A flea collar can be made by rubbing a few drops of one of the following into an ordinary webbing or rope collar or even a doggy bandanna: eucalyptus oil, Tea Tree Oil, citronella, lavender or geranium. Don’t forget to do this weekly.

YOUR HOME: Fleas spend most of their time in your furnishings and only hop onto your dog or you for their next meal. Make sure you wash your dog’s bedding regularly because no flea ever survived a hot wash cycle. If you add eucalyptus oil to the final rinse it will also kill 99% of house dust mites. Vacuum your home very thoroughly and sprinkle a fine layer of ordinary table salt over your upholstery and carpets and leave overnight before vacuuming again to evict your unwelcome guests safely but don’t forget to empty your vacuum bag.

BATHING: A badly infested dog really needs to be bathed so use your favorite dog shampoo. Rinse the dog off very thoroughly and in the final rinse add a couple of drops of Tea Tree Oil or Lavender oil. An alternative is to make your own herbal flea dip which will also work on ticks. Steep two cups of fresh rosemary in two pints of boiling water for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid, discard the leaves and make it up to one gallon (8 pints) with warm water. Pour this mixture over the dog until it’s saturated. Do not rinse off and allow the dog to dry naturally so this is a remedy to use on hot summer days.

INTERNAL FLEA REPELLENTS: Garlic may not be your favorite cologne and it’s not the flea’s favorite smell either. When your dog eats garlic, the smell is excreted through the dog’s skin making your dog less likely to be the flea’s next meal. Brewer’s yeast tablets will also help to make your dog less attractive to fleas because once again the smell is excreted through the skin. Adding a tablespoon of apple cider vinegar to the water bowl will make the skin more acidic and unpleasant to fleas and ticks. If your dogs don’t fancy apple cider vinegar in the water bowl, dilute it 50/50 with water and use in a spray bottle instead of the citrus repellent

 

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